You've had two or three contractors out. You have pieces of paper with very different numbers. Here's how to compare them properly.
What Every Estimate Should Contain
1. What the elevation readings showed
Not "your foundation has settled" — actual measurements. How much drop, where, over what distance. Without this you have no way to evaluate whether the proposed scope is proportionate. Ask for a copy of the readings.
2. Pier count, locations, and a drawing
A diagram of the house with pier positions marked. Two estimates with different totals are not comparable until you can see where each contractor is placing them and why.
3. Pier type and expected depth
Pressed concrete, pressed steel, drilled, helical — and roughly how deep they anticipate going on your lot. See the comparison. Depth matters more than type; a pier that stops short of bearing fails regardless of material.
4. The target lift
How much elevation they intend to recover. A good contractor names a practical target and explains why not more. "We'll make it perfectly level" is a warning sign, not a selling point — over-lifting cracks tile, drywall, and plumbing.
5. Plumbing test status
Has a static plumbing test been done, or is one recommended? In Wichita Falls homes with original cast iron drain lines, an under-slab leak is a common and easily missed cause of movement. Piering over an active leak is money spent twice.
6. Exclusions, in writing
This is where disputes come from. Cosmetic repair (drywall, brick mortar, tile, paint, door adjustment) is almost always excluded. Landscaping restoration, plumbing repair, and drainage work often are too. Get it stated explicitly rather than assumed.
7. Permitting
Structural foundation work generally requires a permit. The contractor should pull it. Confirm in writing — unpermitted structural work becomes a problem at resale.
8. Warranty terms
Not the word "lifetime." The actual document. What's covered, what voids it, whether it transfers and at what cost, and who backs it if the company closes. See warranties explained.
9. Timeline and payment schedule
Start date, working days, and how payments are structured. A modest deposit with the balance on completion is normal.
10. Proof of license and insurance
General liability and workers' compensation certificates. Ask for them; a legitimate contractor produces them without friction.
Red Flags
Walk away from:
- A price quoted before anyone measured your floors. Diagnosis precedes pricing. Always.
- Same-day discounts that expire tonight. Legitimate contractors will be there next week at the same price. Urgency is a sales tool, not an engineering finding.
- Large upfront payment demands. Half or more before work starts is not normal.
- No written scope — just a total.
- Door-to-door solicitation after a weather event.
- Refusal to provide insurance certificates.
- "You don't need a permit for this."
- Promises of perfectly level results.
- No local address or history. A lifetime warranty from a company formed this year is a sentence, not a guarantee.
- Pressure not to get a second opinion.
When the Numbers Are Far Apart
This happens routinely and it doesn't automatically mean someone is cheating. Foundation repair genuinely admits of different reasonable judgments about pier count and method.
The resolution isn't a third contractor — that just gives you three opinions. It's a structural engineer report. An engineer has no stake in the pier count, produces an independent specification, and lets you bid identical scope. Several hundred dollars to clarify a five-figure decision is sound.
Questions to Ask Before You Sign
- What do you believe is causing the movement, not just what's damaged?
- Is this active movement or historical movement that has stopped?
- Why this pier type for my soil?
- What depth do you expect, and how do you determine refusal?
- Has a static plumbing test been done?
- What's the target lift and why not more?
- Exactly what is excluded from this price?
- Is the warranty transferable, and what does transfer cost?
- Who backs the warranty if you close?
- Can I see your insurance certificates and three local references from the last year?
A contractor who answers all ten clearly and in writing is one you can work with. One who gets impatient at question four has told you something useful.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many estimates should I get?
At least two, preferably three, for anything substantial. They're free. If the two you get are close in scope and price, you can move forward with reasonable confidence. If they're far apart, that's your signal to bring in an engineer.
Is a bigger pier count always better?
No. More piers means more cost and isn't inherently more protective — piers should be placed where measurements show support is needed. An unnecessarily large scope is a real thing. That's precisely what an independent engineer specification protects against.
Should I pay a deposit?
A modest deposit to schedule and cover materials is normal. Demands for half or more of the total before any work begins are not. Structure payments so a meaningful balance is due on completion.
What if the contractor finds more problems once they start?
It happens legitimately — a pier hits an obstruction, a plumbing leak surfaces, wood turns out worse than it looked. What matters is that the contract requires written change orders with your approval before extra work proceeds. Verbal 'we found something' should never become an invoice.
More Homeowner Guides
- 12 Warning Signs
- Cost Guide
- The Drought Effect
- Slab vs. Pier & Beam
- Insurance Coverage
- Selling With Foundation Issues
- Engineer Reports
- Watering Schedule
- Landlord Guide
Foundation Services in Wichita County
- Foundation Repair
- Slab Foundation Repair
- Pier & Beam Repair
- House Leveling
- Foundation Crack Repair
- Free Foundation Inspection
- Steel vs. Concrete Piers
- Drainage & French Drains
- Commercial Foundation Repair
- Warranties Explained
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